We have several veterinarians that do pro bono work for us: Lake Forest, Rustburg Animal Hospital, and Riverside Veterinary Hospital. If your foster needs to be spayed/neutered, let Susan Stanbery know and she will call and make the appointment when it is a convenient time for you.

Drop off is between 7:30-8am and pick up is by 6PM on the same day at most vets. Riverside requires that females remain overnight for observation. If your work does not allow for transportation then you can post on our volunteer FB page and see if another volunteer is able to transport that day. When your animal goes to his alter appointment, he does NOT receive any food after midnight the day before. Water is ok. When you arrive at the clinic, let the receptionist know your name and that you are with CVRR and the dog's name and L#.

When you pick up your animal, he will be groggy (think one too many shots of tequila). You will need to put him somewhere quiet so he can rest for the remainder of the day and night. A crate or bathroom is ideal. A few hours after he arrives back home you can offer a small meal, then about 3/4 of his normal meal that night. Each animal is sent home with an anti-inflammatory to start the following day after surgery so the animal is comfortable. Give it with food. Give it until all the pills are gone.

Discontinue meds and contact Laura if the animal starts with any vomiting or diarrhea while on the medication. The animal should not receive a bath for 7 days and attempt to keep the animal relatively quiet (and not running crazy) while he heals over the following week. Each day you should peek at the incision. If you notice a lot of redness, swelling or discharge at the incision site, or the animal is licking frequently, contact Laura.

Adoption events will be held at least once a month once established. You can come and stay for the event itself or make arrangements on our volunteer FB page to pick up and drop off your animal. If you do not stay with your foster, it's helpful to leave an index card with the basic information about your animal with whomever is handling him. Include, breed, age, likes and dislikes, any adoption requirements like a companion animal or fenced yard, if he is good (or not) with children and cats, and if he is house trained.

Before taking your animal out of the car be sure that his collar is very snug. Two fingers should be able to slide in with NO extra wiggle room. ALL shy dogs should be on martingale collars at all times when out of the area and each animal should have a tag with our information. If your foster has any kind of fear related issues, he may not last through the entire event, that's ok. Better to have an abbreviated visit that starts and ends on a positive note than pushing your foster longer than he is ready for. We want it to be a positive experience for everyone involved. A reminder that anytime you are at an event (or wearing shirts with our logo in public) you are an ambassador for our organization. We ask that you behave in a way that is in accordance with our values.

Some other helpful information about adoption events...We do not adopt animals on the spot. Anyone interested in adopting needs to apply online and go through our adoption process. It takes an average of 3-5 days to hear from a foster home after filling out an application, but can take as long as 7-10 days depending on schedules. We do check veterinary references on any potential family who has owned animals during their adult life.

There aren't too many medical maladies that cross species. Most commonly fleas and ticks. Every animal will receive an application of flea and tick prevention upon intake. If the animal is going to require immediate bathing, it should be applied after the bath. Bathing in dawn dish liquid is as effective as any flea and tick shampoo at killing the fleas on the animal but should always be used in conjunction with a topical product (not instead of).

The vast number of topical applications will kill ticks but not cause them to actually let go, so “tick picking” may be in order for some animals. If you remove a tick it should be done with forceps and not bare fingers as the saliva is what cares tick diseases.

Sarcoptic mange, some funguses (like ring worm are also contagious to humans although it is unlikely that you will have to handle either of these illnesses.

Some intestinal parasites are contagious to humans. By practicing basic hygiene and handwashing, you will avoid transmission. Scoop foster animals poop promptly to avoid the eggs of worms being left in your soil.

Fleas
Kennel Cough
Parvo Virus
Intestinal Parasites
Sarcoptic Mange

The most common transmissible illnesses from canine to canine are fleas and kennel cough. Fleas are generally avoided through the use of topical preventative medication. Some dogs have flea allergy dermatitis which is identifiable from a classic hair pattern loss around the rump and rear legs. For animals that are allergic to fleas, even a few bites can cause a severe reaction that can last up to a month.

Sarcoptic Mange is also contagious to dogs (and people) although not very commonly seen. There are two kinds of mange.

Demodex is a normal skin mite that most everyone (yes even you) have. In times of stress they multiply out of control causing hair loss. Some dogs have skin infections secondary to the mites. It's more common in youngsters, and frequently hairloss begins on feet and head. Despite having hair loss, dogs with demedex usually aren't exceptionally itchy.

With sarcoptic mange, (whichIScontagious), the dog is usually VERY itchy. It is much less common than demodex, and because specialized care is needed to prevent transmission to you and your pets, we usually house these animals in specialized foster homes.

There are many reasons that a dog may vomit. Most commonly a change in diet, stress, virus, or parasites. When changing diets, it's best to do so gradually over a week or even more. Table food of any kind can cause some dogs to have an upset stomach but especially beef, pork, or anything fried. Vomiting can be caused by new treats or rawhides.

If your foster has not had a change in his diet and is not prone to eating things he shouldn't (IE underwear, trash, toys....), and is having intermittent vomiting (or diarrhea), a round of dewormer is never a bad idea.

If your foster is a PUPPY (even if he has had a set of vaccines) parvo virus is always a concern to rule out if accompanied by any lethargy or fever.

If your foster is vomiting but appears to feel ok, you can take away his food and water for 8 hours and then offer very small amounts of food and a bland diet (like boiled chicken and rice or a scrambled egg) every few hours over the next 24 hours.

If your dog persists in vomiting on a bland diet, call Laura or Dani. If your foster feels lethargic in addition to vomiting, call Dani or Laura. If you think your dog may have eaten something (like a toy) and his intestines may be obstructed, call Laura or Dani. When in doubt, Call Laura or Dani.

Like with vomiting diarrhea can be caused by a change in diet, parasites, a virus, or very commonly- stress. When changing diets, it's best to do so gradually over a week or even more. Table food of any kind can cause some dogs to have an upset stomach but especially beef, pork, or anything fried. Diarrhea can be caused by new treats or rawhides.

If your foster has not had a change in his diet and is having intermittent diarrhea, a round of dewormer is never a bad idea.

If your foster is has diarrhea but appears to feel ok, you can take away his food for 8 hours and then offer a bland diet (like boiled chicken and rice or a scrambled egg) every few hours over the next 24 hours. You can also try adding some probiotics and/or canned pumpkin to his food.

If diarrhea persists for 24 hours after a bland diet has begin, contact Laura or Dani. You can give imodium for dogs who are not pregnant or lactating if you believe the diarrhea is simply do to a change in diet or stress and he appears otherwise ok. You can find the dosage chart here.

If your foster animal is NOT a senior, most commonly limping is caused from a sprain or strain. Restrict activity for 1 week. If your foster is non-weight bearing (meaning, holding the leg entirely off the ground) after 24-48 hours, contact Laura or Dani. If you have a small breed foster and it is a rear leg lameness, they can be prone to a luxating patella, when the knee caps slide off to the side. With a luxating patella it tends to be intermittent. Sometimes they will hop for a few steps and then seem 100 percent normal.

If you feel that the pain is severe or have questions, you are always welcome to call. When in doubt, always call. We do not recommend giving aspirin for dogs because it sometimes will cause an upset stomach.

Ibuprofen and Aleve and most other human anti-inflammatories are toxic to dogs.

If your dog is itchy, Benadryl can be used every 8 hours at a rate of 1 MG per pound. (you can round up so a 20 pound dog can receive 1 adult 25 mg tablet 3 times a day). This is a very benign medication to use long term.

You can also use Claritin (NOT DM). You can find information and a dosage chart here.

Dogs who are itchy benefit from frequent bathes in a mild shampoo...as often as 2-3 times a week. The more often you wash the allergens off the skin the less itchy (generally) the dog will be.

Saliva is also an irritant so washing that away will also give the animal relief. You will not dry out the animal's skin as long as you use a mild shampoo like an aloe and oatmeal.

There are two kinds of allergies...environmental and food. Licking feet is classic of environmental allergies. Itchy face and chronic ear infections can be a hallmark of food allergies.

Frequently dogs (like people) will have a little of both.

If you are seeing pustules in the armpits or stomach or the skin seems red or scabby, the animal likely has a skin infection requiring antibiotics.

Hair loss on the rump and rear legs is classic of a flea allergy.

Shaking head or scratching ears is usually indicative of an ear infection and requires medication. When in doubt, call Laura or Dani

Unlike many medical issues, eye issues need to be taken seriously and treated immediately. Especially if only ONE eye seems affected (which may be indicative of a scratch on the cornea) call Laura or Dani.This is not a “wait and see” issue.

If your animal is ever quieter than usual, lethargic, or has you concerned in any way, call Laura or Dani

The two most common reasons for coughing is a virus like Kennel Cough or heart disease. If your dog is recently pulled from the shelter and young, a virus is more likely. In cases of KC a cough suppressant like robitussin can be given. Click here for the dosage chart and information on this medication.

Donottake your foster to a public place (including to the spay neuter clinic) while coughing. There is a vaccine (Bordatella) that we recommend your resident dog receives annually for KC. Unfortunately, even with the vaccine on board, there is still a reasonably good chance of your dogs catching the virus at some point in your fostering “career” because it is SO contagious and SO common. The vaccine tends to shorten the lifespan and severity of the virus but sometimes does not prevent it entirely from occurring.

The good news is that it is essentially the doggy version of the common cold, and unless your animals are very old or have a compromised immune system, they should kick the bug in a week or so with no lasting effects. If your resident animal does catch kennel cough and you feel that he needs a cough suppressant or medical intervention of some kind, we are happy to provide care at no cost to you.

Kennel cough sounds like the dog has “something stuck in his throat”—sometimes they gag and spit up phlegm. Some will cough seemingly non stop for the first few days of the virus and as time goes on, it will lessen. Toward the tail end, the coughing will mainly be in conjunction with exercise. At no point should this virus affect his appetite and usually they are still mostly active. If you are concerned, always call.

If the cough is accompanied by lethargy, exercise intolerance, a loss of appetite or fainting spells, call Laura or Dani immediately.

If your foster is NEW to you and not eating that usually just normal anxiety. Some animals even go as long as 3-4 days eating nothing or minimally and that is ok. HOWEVER, if your animal normally eats and has stopped eating, it can be an indication of an upset stomach or something more concerning so be sure to alert Laura or Dani.

Crate training uses a dog's natural instincts as a den animal. A wild dog's den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger, and raise a family.

The crate becomes your dog's den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm. The primary use for a crate is housetraining. Dogs don't like to soil their dens.

The crate can limit access to the rest of the home while he learns the rules. Don't leave your dog in the crate too long.

A dog that's crated day and night doesn't get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious.

Puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders and bowels for that long. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament, and past experiences.

It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training:

• The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.
• Training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.

1: Introduce your dog to the crate
Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at his leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away.

If yours isn't one of them:

• Bring him over to the crate, and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten him.
• Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay; don't force him to enter.
• Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feed your dog his meals in the crate
After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.

• If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.
• If he remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating.
• If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, don't let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.

Step 3: Lengthen the crating periods
After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home.

• Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.
• Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.
• After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door.
• Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let him out of the crate.
• Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight.
• Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4: Part A: Crate your dog when you leave
After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house.

• Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate.
• Vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
• Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.

Step 4: Part B: Crate your dog at night
Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop whining soon. If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time.

If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Some dogs do better with the crate further from where you sleep. Some are quieter with the crate covered with a sheet. If the dog is anxious, you can try a Plug in Adaptil (which is a natural pheromone to relax, or a composure tablet before bed, another natural supplement). Also be sure that the crate is large enough for him and that he gets enough exercise prior to being crated.

Does your dog freak out in the crate? Pant nonstop, filling the crate and himself with drool, howl or bark for hours on end, or does he try to fight his way free, breaking the crate bars/gate and his teeth/nails in the process? No matter what his level of distress, the following protocol can help most dogs learn to accept the crate again:

Start with the Bottom Half
Get a plastic crate. If your dog is housebroken, this crate can be as large as you like and can afford. Take it apart and put the bottom of the crate in his “safe spot”. Put a rug or towel under it if sits on tile or hardwood flooring to prevent it from slipping or rattling when your dog steps into it. Store toys in the half-crate, leave a trail of treats from the entrance to the way back with several treats, against the back wall. (This way he gets the biggest reward for braving going in.) Feed him in it. Start with the bowl just outside the crate, then just inside and then toward the back. Give him most of his attention for being near the crate at first, then standing in it, then sitting in it and then lying down. Anytime you find him in it, calmly praise him. He's the BEST dog when he is in that crate. Stack the deck! Restrain him (either by tying him or having a helper hold him) and show him that you are putting a favorite toy, food dispensing toy or treat in the half crate. Go to him, get him all revved up and then release him with an “Okay!” What does that do? That gets him thinking, “Wow, the CRATE! I get to go to the crate! Can I please go, can I, can I?”

Add the Top Half
When he is loving his half crate, securely fasten on the top half (but no door yet) and repeat as above. He'll probably progress quickly. If that happens, put on the door.

Add the Door
You now have a dog who loves his crate but hasn't been closed into it yet. Start slowly, close the door while he works on his food dispensing toy. Stay close by, read a magazine or watch TV. If your dog stands up, whines or seems restless in his crate, run a long line (10-15 feet) from his flat collar, under the crate door to you. Apply light pressure to the leash; this will apply light pressure to the back of your dog's neck, a cue to lie down that he already knows from The Guided Down. (If he doesn't, start teaching him that today.) When he downs, release the pressure. Repeat as needed until he starts to stay down. When he holds the down for 10 seconds or so instead of instantly popping back up, go over without comment and stick a treat through the gate. Good dog. Quit while you're ahead with these games. You can always do another session a little later.

When you let him out ignore him. There should be NO excitement coming out of the crate, all is calm. The best things happen when he is IN his crate. From there, start moving around the room while your dog is in the crate be relaxed and calm. Leave the long line on your dog so you can help him with the Guided Down if he starts to stress. Between practice sessions, prop the door open and continue to put treats and toys in there, continue to give him the best attention when he is in the crate. Remove all other dog beds from the area; we want the crate to be the best spot available.

Teaching your puppy or dog what “off” means when all is calm is time very well spent. This is called “pretraining,” and the idea is that if we teach our companions what we want when all is calm and relaxed, then we have it ready to go when things are more exciting.

Here's how you do it:

• Work in a calm area, where you are the most exciting thing around. Have your puppy or dog on a four-foot leash.
• Have a few treats in the hand holding the leash or in your pocket.

Now, back up away from your pup.

• Pulse/squeeze the leash if you need to.
• Praise your puppy so he is focused on you.
• As he approaches, stop, say “off” as you put your empty hand out toward his face in the universal “stop” signal and rock slightly forward.
• He should stop, he may sit.
• Smile, praise
• What a smart puppy! Reward him with a treat or two and repeat.

Common Questions
But he didn't jump up, you say. True, but that's okay. He's learning that he is rewarded for stopping and/or sitting when he sees that hand signal. That'll work. He's not focused on me when I back up. Try putting the treat to his nose then stashing it back in the leash holding hand just before you back up. That may pique his interest. He jumps up. Try stopping and rocking forward a little faster, a bit more abruptly. See if that helps. Be sure you don't have food in the “stop” hand. Try stopping and rocking forward sooner, when he is farther from you. He turns away and leaves. Go a little slower and a bit softer. You may have a sensitive flower on your hands and less is more with many sensitive dogs.

Can I say “Down”? Please don't; as people we use “Down” to mean both lie down and get off, but having two meanings for one word is confusing for any dog. Keep things simple: “Off” means to get off of something and “Down” means to lie down.

Mouthing is a playful behavior most pups indulge in, which involves their mouth on your flesh. It is generalized (meaning they mouth everyone equally), some breeds mouth more than others and the beginning of teething (around four months of age) can bring it to a crescendo. It also can be painful and annoying, and it is always something we want to stop.

DO:

• Pet him with long, slow strokes. Fast petting and “roughing” his face can cause him to mouth.
• Make sure no one is roughhousing with your puppy, as that often leads to a mouthy puppy.
• Make sure he is sleeping enough. Growing pups need lots of sleep during the first six months. If he consistently gets mouthy after a lot of time awake, he may need a nap more than he needs ”training.”
• Make sure he's getting enough physical exercise. Pups, like kids, go a little wonky if they can't run around and let the youngness out every day. A bored, pent up puppy is an obnoxious puppy, so, no matter the weather or the reason, get that puppy out to play!
• Make sure he's getting enough mental exercise. Space games and self-control games help teach your pup to make the right choices and demand that he think and choose. Thinking tires, so make him think!
• Get him around canine playmates. Ideally older sensible dogs who will explain the rules of mouth use to him in ways only canines can.
• Freeze when his mouth goes on you and “yelp” loudly, try to be as startling as possible. If he removes his mouth, great. Now, don't try to pet him right away just calmly praise him verbally.
• If you were playing, stop the game. Mouthing = no more play.
• Reach under his jaw, take his collar in hand and gently pull him toward the arm or leg he is mouthing, then hold steady. Most pups will, after a few seconds, try to pull away. Good, release and let him pull away. This is called the oppositional reflex (which is one of the reasons walking on leash is such a challenge). You might was well reap the benefits of it.
• Leave a leash on him in the house when you are home. This allows you to deal with him calmly and effectively without having to put a hand near the jaws.
• Do the “calm = release” exercise (gently restraining Fido through his squirming...think HUG...when he relaxes in your arms, immediately let go and calmly praise.
• Supply good chew toys at the right times. When raising pups, we keep large compressed rawhides in the house. We recommend and use Castor and Pollux brand, don't bother buying cheap versions as they are thin layers over scrap bits in the middle. Good quality brands are sheets of thick rawhide layered together, making a long-lasting chew toy.
• First thing in the AM and again in the evening, I rub the toy in my hand and blow on it (meaning I put my scent on it) and then I hand it to the pup. Usually this leads to 20-30 minutes of intense chewing. Perfect. We all get a break and the pup gets to use those jaws for good. Oh, and remove the toy after 1/2 an hour, that way they stay excited each time they get it.
• Tether the puppy. Tie the leash to something sturdy then clip it to the pup's flat buckle collar. Tether him nearby so he can be in the room but not under foot and not grabbing your shoelaces, chomping your pant legs, etc.
• Binaca (a breath spray in a small canister that fits in the palm of your hand). Tuck it into your palm so it is out of sight. When your pup latches on, go very still and calmly tell him, “Stop it” or “No Bite” then, right after you say that, give a quick spray downward toward where your puppy's mouth is, it should be delivered from above and toward your body. The moment your pup releases, calmly praise him but do not try to pet him.
• Separate, leash, tether or crate your pup when any young children in your life start to get loud and active. Few pups can resist joining in and the only way they really can join in is with mouth open. Nothing good will come of it. Save puppy and child time for calmer moments when success, for all, is easier to create and reward.

DON'T:

• Don't grab or hit his muzzle. Too often this teaches pups to either target the hands for intense mouth contact (not exactly a bite but no longer “playful” mouthing either) or it makes your puppy hand shy. Either way, there are more effective and less problematic choices.
• Don't squeal and run away. Doing that makes you one giant squeaky toy, and very few pups of any breed or age will be able to resist giving chase.
• Don't link mouthing with toys. Meaning if every time his mouth goes on you, you get a toy to “distract him,” you are actually teaching him that mouthing is rewarded with play. Instead, do a Guided Down or a Simple Sit and, once he is momentarily calm, THEN give the toy. That way calm and self-control = reward. That's a step in the right direction!
• Don't spray into his face or up his nose with breath spray. Spray down toward where he is mouthing on you.
• Don't show him the breath spray canister to get him to stop, because then you will have a puppy who respects the canister and not your words.
• Don't mistake serious intent with mouthing. And yes, pups can have serious intent. In general, if pups protest something specific, grab and hold on, grab and shake, or puncture skin you need to seek qualified professional help right away.

Pulling is a super common problem. The fact is that walking beside you is probably a little mind numbingly boring when you COULD be sniffing all that the world has to offer. Have the right tools. No retractable leads. Every dog is different when it comes to tools that can help training. Prong collars, gentle leader head halters, no pull harnesses can all be good if used correctly. When you start leash training, bring out the good stuff...chicken, cheese, turkey. It has to be more interesting than the dead squirrel on the side of the road. If you have a hound, it has to be more interesting than the dead squirrel three zip codes away.

• Start on the right foot. You don't move until he is focused on you.
• Shorten your leash so the dog is next to you but the lead shouldn't be right or they will naturally pull against the pressure (think chinese finger trap). The leash should always be loose where the clip is hanging down. If you have to make a correction, it's quick then then slack again.
• If your dog shoots off like a rocket, change directions for a few steps. When he catches up, good boy and treat. If she shoots ahead again, switch directions again...continue...you want him focused on you and beside or behind you.
• Practice claiming the space in front of him. When you are standing with your dog on your left, pivot around to face him by moving your right foot around. Ask him to sit and reward. Repeat. Now take a few steps and pivot/sit....a few more steps, pivot and sit. Eventually when you pivot to face him, he will sit without being asked. Start every walk with a few of these to get his focus on you.
• Leash training takes time and consistency...and a lot of cheese.

There are 3 main ways to teach respect for the door. I do not tell my dogs to wait at the door because I don't expect the plumber to know to ask them...or any guest. I want them to NOT exit unless told to.

Here's how:

• Option one: Check to be sure the collar is very snug and leash your dog. Open the door, wait for Fido to bolt out the door. Close the door with you inside and him outside with minimum slack. Wait....keep waiting.....give it a minute or two...or 4. Open the door. “Oh hi there, you want to come in?” Repeat. Over and over. Most dogs pick up on this method very, very well. OK is the release word for your dog to exit.
• Option two: If you have done some work with pivoting in front of your dog (for leash training) then leash your dog (for safety), and when he goes to bolt, pivot in front of him. Use your body to back him away from the door. Repeat until he waits to be released.
• Option three: Leash dog. Open door. When dog goes to bolt out the door quickly slam the door (careful to not bump dog). Open it slowly again, if he bolts repeat. Eventually he will back up and look to you...continue until he waits until the door is totally open AND you have given the cue to go.

This one isn't easy. There is some inherent reward in the chase behavior, so the more your dog does it, the more well-versed he will become. This can become very serious, so being consistent in redirection and correction of this behavior before it starts over the next few weeks will really be important. That said, I would also correct him if he gets fully into chase mode because you were not able to catch him in time to redirect him first. If he takes off chasing, you need to be right after him, using your voice as a correction tool. I want him to be immediately aware he has made a bad choice in chasing the kitty because you are very upset. When you catch him, without emotion, put him into a room by himself or into his crate for a few minutes. You don't need to hold a long grudge against him, but he needs to know that his chasing behavior has a serious consequence. Not only will you not allow it, he will have some time alone if and when he partakes.

If you have done any obedience work with him, use your recall (come, here, etc.) to work on calling him off. You may want to review his recall in contexts easier than cat-chasing at first so you can build a reinforcement history for coming when called. That way, you are likely to be more successful when he is otherwise distracted. This practice will help you outdoors as well with his daily recalls or off-leash behavior. Keep a leash on so if you are close by you can step on it to control the situation. Make sure he is getting enough exercise. Be sure your cat has a place to get away. Sometimes a super soaker squirt gun to the head is enough to convince Fido to find another hobby. If this becomes an issue, moving the foster dog to a different home may be the best and safest option. We never want your resident animals to be uncomfortable with a visitor.

This is another one that is very dependent on the severity of the issues and lots of other factors...size difference, are their kids in the home, is the aggression centered around guarding a resource or simply generalized, has blood actually been drawn verses just a lot of obnoxious posturing and growling. This one may need some hands-on help with Laura to work through but if you have one dog constantly causing issues with the other, sometimes they just need a bit more structure and a reminder that you have control over the situation and its their job to relax and follow.
A bit of “grounding” may help. Here's how... Grounding calms, sweetens and refocuses such dogs in just a few days. It also can help shy/sensitive dogs feel more secure in the world and confident in you.

Do this:

"Say Please"
• Dogs "say please" by obeying commands. Before you give him anything he enjoys, a command is given and obeyed. Before doing him a favor, like getting a toy or letting him outside, he should "say please." Anticipating what you want is lovely but not enough here, listening is what we're going for.
• Dogs maintain their group status through day to day interaction, so having your dog obey you frequently keeps you quietly in the driver's seat.
Show Respect
• When you're grounded, part of the deal is being on your best behavior. If he's in your way tell him to move and make him do so. If he resists, leave the lead on and guide him out of the way.
• If you're walking out the door, don't allow him to shove you aside so he can go first. Put him on lead and teach him "Wait." Jumping up, nose nudging and pawing to solicit attention stops. Have him "Sit" or "Down" and then reward him with your attention.
Four on the Floor
• Keep your dog on the ground and humans off the ground. This is important. Couch time and bed cuddling is earned. It is lost the moment behavior goes askew and is rewarded to your dog when all else is back on an even keel. Having your dog on leash will help you do this at first. Be calm, be clear, be consistent. It works, really well.
Chores
• Doing chores is a time honored, attitude adjustment mechanism. "Chores" for your dog are obedience routines.
• Three short fiveminute sessions a day will go a long way to bringing your dog's attitude around. Praise him plenty, but make him work.
• The formula is simple: Say it, Follow through, Reward.
Organize His Free Time
• His free time should be limited. Keep him on lead near you most of the time. Give him a toy or two but hold on to the lead. When you move, he moves. The more he follows you, the more he will see you as his leader. Use commands often and indiscriminately, always calmly insisting that he obey. Why? Because you say so, that's why.
• Please note: We do not say "Tie the dog to you" please don't do that! Hold on so you can pulse, guide, help when that is needed. When your dog is calm and entertaining himself, by all means drop the lead and let him. But if he starts to get into trouble, calmly pick it back up and get him organized again.
Go To His Room
• Most "problem" dogs benefit from a crating schedule. Even if you are home all the time, crate him for at least three hours in the morning and three hours in the afternoon. This helps to establish good behavior, stop destructive cycles and teach him to sleep when you're out or busy.
Less Attention
• Many problem dogs get too much attention. If you're averaging more than ten minutes of attention per hour when you are home, then you need to cut back.
• Attention means talking to or petting. Lying at your feet or taking a walk do not count. Going over to your dog and petting him is particularly detrimental. Dogs cannot help but interpret this as submissive behavior on your part. If you want him to be enthused about being praised, make him work for it. If it is a little more rare, it will be a little more dear.
A Dozen Downs a Day
• A dozen downs a day for a few weeks will help make "down" second nature for your dog; mentally making him more accepting and responsive. Don't do them all in a row, ask for them when your dog least expects it. Hint: Pretrain the guided down so you can create a down easily from light pressure if your dog doesn't respond.
Exercise
• This much change can be stressful for your dog. Plenty of exercise is required to help him through the first few weeks of this new program. If done properly, he will be getting plenty of attention, but in a more productive way. Have Fun!
• Teach some silly tricks or a new command that amuses you. Have a good time with your dog.
• that is the reason you have a companion. Changing the way your dog relates to you doesn't mean you stop enjoying each other.

Also, it's important to note who the strongest “leader” between the two dogs is, and support that dog. It may not be the dog you prefer. Your personal preference does not matter. Your “alpha” may be more comfortable with the situation, and less likely to constantly try to “make his point” when he sees you have his back. That means greeting him and feeding him first. Showing obvious preferential treatment. Some other things to remember, watch the dogs on close quarters or times of anxiety, like when the doorbell rings. Be one step ahead of the game. Do not allow them to play with prized toys together or rawhides of any kind. Just like with the cat situation, we never want anyone to get hurt so this is one behavioral situation that it may be in everyone's best interest to try the dog in a different foster home.

It's not uncommon for foster dogs to be afraid of steps when they arrive. Many have always been kept outside and simply have no idea what they are and how to conquer them. Some things that may help:

• Let your foster see other dogs traverse the steps
• Put some cheese on the first step or lure him by putting it at his nose and guiding him down with your hand gently on his collar. You may have to pull him a bit the first time. Reward frequently
• Ignore it....he will come around
• Make it a game...get him riled up then throw a ball down the steps

First, I think it's important to say that no dog should be labeled with generalized anxiety until he has been in a foster home for 3 weeks at least. Changing homes and environments is scary and a little anxiety (or a lot) is normal. However, if it continues for a month or more and your foster has a very hard time settling down, follows you from room to room, pants and paces, shakes or is destructive it may be a sign of generalized anxiety.

• First reward calm behavior. If you see Fido laying down, don't say anything but “drive by treat” meaning just walk by and let food fall from the sky.
• Really work on that crate training. The crate can be really helpful with anxious dogs, giving him a place that's safe of his very own.
• “Ground” him. Read about grounding under Issues with Resident Dogs.
• Reward the behavior you want and ignore what you don't want
• Composure is a natural supplement that can help with anxiety. Amazon carries it
• Adaptil makes a collar that is a natural calming pheromone for dogs. Also found on amazon.
• Dogs with anxiety can really be helped by confidence building exercises.

A game called “check it out” where you gradually move closer to a scary object (could be anything from a bag on the floor to a manhole). At first you only take a few steps toward it....reward and have fun. Back to your starting point and ignore your dog for a moment or two. Next time walk a few steps closer. Try to have fun. Reward every step of the way. Retreat back to the starting place and be boring again. Wait again for a few moments ignoring your dog while at your starting place a distance away from the item. Repeat the process again going closer yet to the scary object. The ideas is you want him to WANT to go closer to the item because you are making it fun. When you move away you give him time to relax and take a much needed mental break but it's boring.

These days, any “home alone” issue seems to be labeled “Separation Anxiety” (SA). To sort out what it is from what it isn't, here are other reasons for problems unrelated to SA:

• Breed Normal Behavior
• Developmentally Normal Behavior
• Opportunity
• Inadequate Care
• Random and Highly Variable Behavior in an Otherwise Calm-When-Alone Dog
• Mislabeled Behavior

Normal Behavior
Retrievers were bred to love to pick things up in their mouths. A retriever that chews is a normal retriever, just as a terrier who digs or barks is a normal terrier and a scent hound or Nordic breed that barks or howls is to be expected. “Normal” is not to be confused with acceptable, wanted or unchangeable, it simply means it is not a sign of dysfunction.

Developmentally Normal Behavior
This category generally shows up at the beginning or toward the end of life. A young pup who is in the extra playful, extra mouthy, teething phase of things will grab and chew and yank and rip because that's what pups at that age do. Protecting them from themselves is as key as protecting your house from them. Intact male dogs may do a number on your home if they see another male dog entering your yard or if a female comes into heat within sniffing range (and that range can be a mile or more). We recommend pet dogs be neutered; it just makes life easier for all concerned. As a dog ages, hearing and eyesight can fade, the mind can drift and behavior can change. If your older dog who has been fine his entire life has recently developed a problem, please speak to your veterinarian before you get frustrated with your old friend.

Opportunity
Nothing mysterious here. Your dog likes to eat garbage. You leave the can out when you exit the house. Your dog tips the can and feasts. He's having a perfectly nice time doing that, nothing the least bit anxious going on, any more than me picking off a brownie from a plate of freshly baked deliciousness cooling on the counter is a sign of anxiety. Nope, simply opportunity combined with desire.

Inadequate Care
A dog who urinates in the house when left alone for 12 hours is a normal dog. Some dogs can hold it that long, but could you? If you could not, would that make you someone with a behavioral issue? Certain individual dogs and certain breeds need specific care. A young Weimaraner needs to run. If he doesn't get a chance to run daily expect him to develop behavior "problems"; he has no other choice. He needs what he needs.

So, before you get frustrated with your dog, see if your dog has any reason to be frustrated with you. If his basic needs are not being met, that has to be addressed first and foremost. Once you have, then review his behavior. You may find that things improve to a nearly miraculous degree. Random and highly variable behavior in an otherwise calm-when-alone dog Here a dog who is usually calm starts having trouble. If this isn't a medical issue, this may be caused by some new event happening outside the house. Frequent delivery trucks pulling up before the holidays, meter readers coming into your yard, a new cat lingering near your dog's favorite window, a new neighbor with kids running around next door are all enough to get some dogs worked up.

Mislabeled behavior
This is a big category, one defined by simple human confusion. A dog who whines with excitement when he hears a familiar car pull into the garage or barks at guests when they leave isn't exhibiting separation issues. He's just excited to have you home or is confused about how to respond when people are leaving.

Test your knowledge of separation anxiety (sa) with these examples. Flip the cards to see the answer.

Many foster homes are in a rush to start socializing their foster dog. When he first arrives, it's best to give him a week (or more depending on his disposition) to relax, settle in, and gain confidence in you as a leader. When you do start socializing him, keep it fun! Always have treats, don't get upset if the outing is cut short. Pay close attention to his body language (information about identifying anxious body language can be found under “adoption events” in chapter one) Better to be short and successful than long and a catastrophe. Dont skip from kindergarten to college. Start in areas that aren't very busy and gauge your foster dog's behavior. Are you able to get his attention? Does he seem relaxed? Will he accept a treat (like cheese...not milk bone)? If he knows “sit” will he when asked? If not then you probably need to take a step back.

If he is shy of strangers start by approaching people (however close you can get while the dog remains comfortable and willing to take a reward), YOU feed a treat and walk away. After several outings try asking someone else to drop the teat at his feet. The idea is people = reward. Sometimes I have to start in the last parking spot at petsmart and I don't get to the first parking spot over a month's time...that's ok. It should never be forced.

Trainers often advise clients to put their dogs on a “Nothing in Life Is Free” program--NILIF, for short. A dog on NILIF gets nothing--not attention, not food, not walks--without earning it either during a formal training session or by responding to a cue such as “Sit” or “Down.” No collecting ear scratches just by resting that big doggy head on your thigh while you're trying to write your next article. It sounds so grim—and yet it really shouldn't be. “Nothing in Life Is Free.”

Should You Use “Nothing in Life is Free” with Your Dog?
Framed in the usual way, NILIF makes many dog guardians cringe. It makes me cringe, too. “Nothing in life is free” sounds as if the whole point of the enterprise is to turn your doggy household into an outpost of some cult that bars dancing and hot chocolate. Actually, taken in the right spirit NILIF functions as a teaching program based on reciprocity and exchange. You can call it “Say Please” if that makes it seem less spartan; other dog-friendly trainers use “Learn to Earn.” And as far as I'm concerned, most dogs should get all the ear scratches they want for free. I'll describe the exception later on. The big insight behind a “Say Please” program is that we, our dogs' people, hold the key to pretty much everything a dog wants in life--walks, attention, tasty treats, a game of tug. When we use rewards to train we're applying that principle. A “Say Please” program takes it further, by structuring daily interactions so that, as often as possible, Dogalini gets what she wants in exchange for doing something you want. The more of these informative and rewarding interactions Dogalini has, the stronger her good habits will become.

How to Use NILIF/“Say Please” Throughout the Day
Here are some examples of how “Say Please” might work in daily life. If it's time to go for a walk, then instead of letting Dogalini do whatever while you put on your shoes and attach her leash, you ask her to sit and stay. Here the reward is ongoing--as she holds her sit-stay, walk time gets closer and closer. If she breaks her sit, you interrupt your prep for going out. Once she holds the sit long enough for you to leash her, you could ask her to do a trick, then open the door to reward her for complying. As you walk, you say “Yes!” and deliver a small treat every few paces as long as Dogalini stays more or less by your side. And your reward her for keeping plenty of slack in the leash by offering her frequent chances to go sniff. At the dog park, you have Dogalini target your hand with her nose once or twice before you unclip her lead. Back home, she can wait in a down-stay while you get her dinner ready and set it on the floor, then head for her bowl when you give the okay. When you're playing fetch with her in the backyard later that evening, you ask her to sit or down or do a well-known trick before every ball throw--the throw is her reward for responding to your cue. Obviously, “Say Please” calls for some effort on the human's part, if you're not used to thinking much about your interactions with your dog. But it can become second nature if you stick with it for a while, and of course it gets easier and easier as your dog learns to look for your cues throughout the day. Still, you might wonder, why go to the trouble of learning this more structured way of relating to your dog? Benefits! Big-time benefits.

How to Use “Say Please” for Puppies
You know what a puppy is? A puppy is a learning machine. Practice “Say Please” with your baby Dogalini for a couple of months and you will be patting yourself on the back every single time you see the out-of-control adolescent dog down the block. A puppy whose people teach manners erratically or not at all grows into a dog who's clueless about human rules. A “Say Please” or “NILIF” program doesn't focus on punishment--it focuses on rewarding behaviors that you like.

How to Use “Say Please” for Dogs Who Need a Boost
For the same reasons, “Say Please” works beautifully for dogs who could use a little confidence. Each reward they earn by responding to you is a success for them. And an animal who knows a set of consistent, workable rules for life probably experiences something like the feeling of competence and safety that we have when we understand what's expected of us on the job or how we can meet a partner's needs at home.

How to Use “Say Please” for Behavior Repair
“Say Please” also comes in handy for repair work. Maybe you've got that out-of-control adolescent dog and you're giving the hairy eyeball to the neighbor whose young 'un is walking so politely on leash. Or your dog never learned to tolerate frustration. He's the dog who doesn't just ask for ear scratches with the head-on-thigh trick he demands them. Or he'll start mouthing you when you end a game of Tug. “Whaddaya mean, 'We're done playing?' We are not! No no no no no! We are not!” For these dogs, who could really use some structure, an abrupt change in the household rules can knock them for a loop. Set everybody up for success by going slow. Ask for a few easy manners behaviors every day and build up the “Say Please” habit a little at a time.

How to Use NILIF/“Say Please” in Behavior Modification
Frustration intolerance brings us to the word-of-caution piece of this article. Some version of NILIF or “Say Please” enters into many or most behavior modification plans, including behavior mod for aggression. If you're dealing with frustration intolerance that shades into outright aggression, consult a good behavior professional before proceeding. Same goes if you just want to develop better manners or a better relationship with your dog, but her response to a “Say Please” program turns out to worry you in any way. “Say Please” isn't harsh or confrontational. If your dog reacts to it by threatening you, get help pronto.

For most of us, though, “Say Please” is an easy, pleasant way to incorporate teaching and learning into everyday life with our dogs, to help a new dog learn the ropes, or to bring up a shy dog's confidence. You don't need to live “Say Please” 24/7 to see benefits, by any means--start by applying it consistently to just a few situations. As you get better at noticing which of your dog's behaviors pay off for her, it will become natural and easy to provide those payoffs in exchange for behaviors you like.

Sooner or later every dog lover returns home to find some unexpected damage inflicted by his or her dog; or, more specifically, that dog's teeth. Although dogs make great use of their vision and sense of smell to explore the world, one of their favorite ways to take in new information is to put their mouths to work.

Fortunately, chewing can be directed onto appropriate items so your dog isn't destroying things you value or jeopardizing his own safety. Until he's learned what he can and can't chew, however, it's your responsibility to manage the situation as much as possible, so he doesn't have the opportunity to chew on unacceptable objects.

1. Understand why dogs chewPuppies, like infants and toddlers, explore their world by putting objects in their mouths. And, like babies, they teethe for about six months, which usually creates some discomfort. Chewing not only facilitates teething but also makes sore gums feel better. Adult dogs may engage in destructive chewing for any number of reasons. In order to deal with the behavior, you must first determine why your dog is chewing—and remember, he's not doing it to spite you. Possible reasons for destructive chewing include:

• As a puppy, he wasn't taught what to chew and what not to chew.
• He's bored.
• He suffers from separation anxiety.
• His behavior is fear-related.
• He wants attention.

Be aware: You may need to consult a behavior professional for help with both separation anxiety and fear-related behaviors.

2. Teach your dog what can be chewed and what can't

• Take responsibility for your own belongings. If you don't want it in your dog's mouth, don't make it available. Keep clothing, shoes, books, trash, eyeglasses and remote controls out of your dog's reach.
• Give your dog toys that are clearly distinguishable from household goods. Don't confuse him by offering shoes and socks as toys and then expecting him to distinguish between his shoe and yours. Supervise your dog until he learns the house rules. Keep him with you on his leash in the house so he can't make a mistake out of your sight. Confine him when you're unable to keep an eye on him. Choose a "safe place" that's dog proof, and provide fresh water and "safe" toys. If your dog is crate trained, you may also place him in his crate for short periods of time.
• Give your dog plenty of people time. Your dog won't know how to behave if you don't teach him alternatives to inappropriate behavior, and he can't learn these when he's in the yard by himself.
• Give your dog plenty of physical and mental exercise. If your dog is bored, he'll find something to do to amuse himself and you probably won't like the choices he makes. On the other hand, a tired dog is a good dog, so make sure he gets lots of physical and mental activity. The amount of exercise should be based on his age, health and breed characteristics.
• If you catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn't, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise. Offer him an acceptable chew toy instead, and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth. Build a toy obsession in your dog. Use his toys to feed him. At mealtimes, fill a Kong type toy with his kibble.
• If your puppy is teething, try freezing a wet washcloth for him to chew on. The cold cloth will soothe his gums. Supervise your puppy so he doesn't chew and swallow any pieces of the washcloth.
• Make items unpleasant to your dog. Furniture and other items can be coated with a taste deterrent (such as Bitter Apple®) to make them unappealing. Caution: Supervise your dog when you first try one of these deterrents. Some dogs will chew an object even if it's coated with a taste deterrent. Also be aware that you must reapply some of these deterrents to maintain their effectiveness.
• Offer your dog a treat in exchange for the item in his mouth. As your dog catches on to this idea, you can add the command "Give" as his cue to release the object in exchange for the yummy treat.
• Don't chase your dog if he grabs an object and runs. If you chase him, you are only giving your dog what he wants. Being chased by his human is fun! Instead call him to you or offer him a treat.
• Have realistic expectations. At some point your dog will inevitably chew up something you value; this is often part of the transition to a new home. Your dog needs time to learn the house rules and you need to remember to take precautions and keep things out of his reach.

3. Never discipline or punish your dog after the fact

• If you discover a chewed item even minutes after he's chewed it, you're too late.
• Animals associate punishment with what they're doing at the time they're being corrected. Your dog can't reason that, "I tore up those shoes an hour ago and that's why I'm being scolded now." Some people believe this is what a dog is thinking because he runs and hides or because he "looks guilty."

In reality, "guilty looks" are actually canine submissive postures that dogs show when they're threatened. When you're angry and upset, your dog feels threatened by your tone of voice, body postures and/or facial expressions, so he may hide or show submissive postures. Punishment after the fact will not only fail to eliminate the undesirable behavior, but it could also provoke other undesirable behaviors.

Many times, dogs are left at the shelter because people never took the time to teach them basic manners. Begging at the table is a very common issue because it's frequently self-rewarding. People accidently drop a bite of food and the dog is rewarded for his perseverance. He is willing to stick around even when food isn't dropped for some time because...well...it's the dog version of a slot machine. Sooner or later he is bond to hit a jackpot.

• Don't allow him to practice bad behavior. Tether him on the other side of the room on a dog bed with a Kong stuffed with HIS dinner or a bone for a few weeks
• After he seem to know the routine remove the tether and see if you can instruct (and maybe guide) Fido where you want him
• Add the addition of a squirt gun. If he approaches the table, give him a little squirt then tell him what you want “go to your place” and guide him there
• Don't feel like training, crate in another room

Honestly, I don't have a huge problem with this one unless I feel like his reaction is HUGELY overdone. I don't like my husband stealing food off my plate either. Always start feeding new fosters in a room alone or crated until you have an idea about how he is with his food (after he has settled in for several weeks)

Now this one, I DO have an issue with. If you are worried about your safety, don't push it. The last thing we want is for anyone to be hurt. That being said, there are safe ways to go about working on this issue.

• Hand feed meals asking the dog to sit intermittently. This is YOUR food and you are nice enough to share it with him.
• Give him his food and stay a distance away. Intermittently throw cheese his way. You want him to see your approach as nonthreatening and supplying BONUS food. As he gets the hang of the game, you move closer with each training session. Don't push it if you are worried at all.
• DON'T yell, threaten or further PROVE that you are threat to him or his food. Lots of dogs that had to compete for meals resource guard. In mild cases, just being fed regularly and left alone is enough to make the behavior dissipate.

Sometimes, dogs come from homes where they were coddled and treated like the center of the universe. Frequently these dogs are the only fur child in the household. I have found senior citizens to be especially prone to overindulging their canine friends. Sometimes WE are the ones who have over indulged. Dogs who come from bad places, we tend to want to overcompensate for their terrible life. When we do, we can accidentally make a pushy little monster.

Dogs that harass you for attention and don't quit when ignored for a brief time can get really old really fast. It can also lead to a slew of other behavior problems. For dogs that push for attention, I practice the “all done” command. Most dogs dislike to be patted on their heads. Most humans don't have a problem doing the patting so this is a good one because guests don't feel like they are being mean if we tell them, “if he is bothering you just pat him on the head and tell him you are all done”. If Fido is annoying me, I just sort of clumsily pat him on the head two or three times and tell him “all done” if he doesn't get the point, I repeat the action and body block him away (think goalie). These dogs are also great candidates for “grounding” Read about grounding under Issues with Resident Dogs.

Adoption events are occasionally scheduled for cats. You can come and stay for the event itself or make arrangements on our volunteer FB page to pick up and drop off your animal. If you do not stay with your foster, it's helpful to leave an index card with the basic information about your animal with whomever is handling him. Include a description, age, likes and dislikes, any adoption requirements like a companion animal or dislike of other cats/dogs, if he is good (or not) with children and dogs.

If your foster is particularly shy, he may not last through the entire event, that's okay. Better to have an abbreviated visit that starts and ends on a positive note than pushing your foster longer than he is ready for. We want it to be a positive experience for everyone involved. A reminder that anytime you are at an event (or wearing shirts with our logo in public) you are an ambassador for our organization. We ask that you behave in a way that is in accordance with our values.

• Cage Breaks: friendly, social cats to decompress for a few weeks.
• Kittens: bottle babies, self-feeders, & in-betweeners.
• Pregnant Queens: pregnant cat expecting to give birth.
• Nursing Queens + Kittens: mama cat and her babies.
• Shy Kittens or Adult Cats: cats that aren't 100% comfortable with people.
• Unsocialized Kittens: kittens that have had minimal human interaction.
• Medical: sick or injured kittens or adult cats & special needs.
• Hospice: end-of-life care for terminally ill or elderly cats.
• Cage Cleaning: weekly or bi-weekly cleaning at adoption cages (litterbox).

A quiet, isolated area is essential for your foster to successfully adjust & acclimate to a new home environment. It should also allow you to fully isolate your foster from your own pets. A spare room or bathroom generally works well. We strongly recommend initially confining your foster inside a cat cage or dog crate within the safe room.

Suggested Set-Up

• One bowl for water & one bowl for food.
• At least one litterbox, placed as far away as possible from food & water bowls.
• At least one cat bed, towel, or blanket for bedding.
• It's also a good idea to have a secure sleeping area, i.e. a cat carrier or cardboard box.
• Toys
• else cats will get bored & may act out.
• Cardboard scratcher(s).

*Foster cats should remain indoors at all times

Ask Yourself:

• Is there quick access to the litter box?
• Is food/water accessibly placed?
• Is there a safe place for the cat to hide?
• Are there places for the cat to hide that would be difficult for you to access?
• Are there exposed electrical wires?
• Are there tables with objects that can be knocked off?
• Is there anything you're worried about breaking or being ruined?

Isolation Protocol While we know that you want to let your foster roam freely and play with your own pets, its absolutely necessary to keep them isolated in their “safe room” for a period of time. This is important even if you dont have any other animals in your home.

The goal is to keep all animals happy & healthy. We generally require at least two weeks of isolation time, however the amount of time varies depending on several factors, i.e. combo test, medical problems/treatment, & the cats individual personality. When you agree to foster a cat, you will be given an estimated confinement time.

*Until cats have been combo tested for FeLV/FIV (negative), they must remain completely isolated from other animals.

Disease Prevention
Known Illnesses: If your foster is sick when they get to your home, they must be kept isolated so they do not infect your resident animals, and so they do not spread their illness all over, leaving the possibility of reinfection.

Possible Illnesses: Most communicable diseases will pop-up within 14 days. Cats, & kittens especially, can appear healthy but may be carrying something that could develop within that time frame. By keeping fosters segregated and confined to a smaller area, you are insuring that theyre not able to spread disease to any other animals or areas of your home, which can make treating & eradicating the disease(s) much easier.

Intestinal Parasites: These can be transmitted through the litterbox. Until your foster has been fully treated for fleas/ticks & parasites, they should be kept isolated.

Stress & Behavior Issues
Adult Cats: Most do best if they are slowly introduced into a new home environment. The sudden access to a large, unfamiliar space can be very overwhelming and cause your foster to go into hiding, have problems using the litterbox, or even keep them from eating. Just as we recommend with our adopters, foster cats should become comfortable in their “safe room,” and then slowly allowed out into the rest of the house.

Kittens: Most will acclimate & become comfortable fairly quickly to a new environment, but they still need to be isolated. Theyre likely still getting the hang of using the litterbox, and if released into a large area, it may cause them to use the bathroom elsewhere. Additionally, a safe room can be free from hazards, hiding places, & without items that could be damaged or destroyed.

Pregnant/Nursing Moms: They can be very protective over their little ones, and need a quiet place to birth, nurture, & raise them until they are ready to be weaned. Too much space and exposure to other animals can cause her to give birth or relocate her babies in an unideal location, or even stop caring for them altogether.

Resident Animals: Even if your own pets seem to do well with new animals, it can still be stressful for new fosters being in their home. Keeping fosters isolated will help eliminate some of that stress, and can also prevent negative interactions between them, which can be damaging to both your pets and your fosters.

Decompression Period
Give your foster some downtime to adjust to their new space. Spending some time sitting in the room with your new foster may help them adjust. Avoid pulling or forcing the cat out of hiding. Instead, use smelly food, treats, or toys to encourage them to come out. Be patient, let them come out on their own time. Some cats may need less than a day to adjust, others may need days or weeks to become completely comfortable. This is normal cat behavior.

Positive Interactions
Focus on positive interactions with your foster cat. Pet them while they're eating this helps them associate you with food. Use interactive toys, i.e. wand toys or even string - this helps them associate you with playtime. Encourage them to come near you using food, treats, and toys. Reward them with treats and chin rubs. Avoid standing or looming over your foster, as the cat may feel threatened.

Introducing Your Foster to Resident Cats
When introducing your foster to resident cats, always supervise their interactions. And separate them immediately should the introduction go poorly. Some hissing and growling is very common. Be patient and take it slow. Allowing your foster and residents cats to gradually familiarize with each others scent and presence is the best approach.

Stage 1: Scent
• Scent is the first introduction.Your foster cat & resident cats will naturally sniff each other from under the door of the safe room. Dont be alarmed if they initially hiss or seem anxious. Within 2-4 days, start exchanging bedding between your foster and resident cats regularly.
• Continue the sniffing.Once there are no noticeable signs of aggression from the cats, i.e. hissing & growling, the next step is to confine your resident cats to a room in the house, and let your foster cat start to explore one room at a time, for a couple of hours each day for several days.
• Swap.Another option during this stage is to carefully allow the resident cats to explore the safe room while your foster explores other rooms in the house. Swapping should be done carefully so that the cats dont actually cross one another. First place your foster into a carrier, move to a different room & close the door. Next open the door to the safe room & allow resident cats to enter, closing the door behind them. Finally - allow your foster out of the carrier. Repeat the process when swapping back.


Stage 2: Sight
• Carrier Meeting.Place your foster in a carrier & set the carrier in a location in your home outside the safe room. Allow the resident cats to investigate, see and sniff your foster through the carrier.
• Gate Meeting.Another option is to secure a baby or pet gate in the doorway of the safe room. Allow the cats to see and sniff one another through the gate. Keep the visits short.
• Repeat.Continue this process at least once daily if possible, until the cats appear to be more comfortable with one another.


Stage 3: Meeting
• Supervise a Meeting.Once comfortable at the sight of each other, crack the door open to the safe room. Always give them the option to retreat into their safe room. Depending on personalities, your foster cat may venture outside their safe room, or your resident cats may come to the safe room to visit. Supervision is required for the safety of all cats.
• In Case of Aggression.Always stop serious threats and/or aggressive behaviors immediately, as a serious fight could damage the potential for successful integration and even result in injury. Try detering negative behaviors by redirecting their attention to toys or treats. Using a spray bottle filled with water is also a safe, effective way to neutralize aggression. Once neutralized, separate the cats ASAP.
• Patience.Some cats will take longer than others to become comfortable around other cats. Focus on positive interactions between the cats as well as between you & the cats. You may notice some hissing, swatting, & overall grouchy behavior for a few months. This is completely normal.

Introducing Your Foster to Resident Dogs

• Scent.Follow Stage 1 of “Cat Introductions.”
• Sight.Follow Stage 2 of “Cat Introductions.”
• Meeting.Arrange a meeting as described in Stage 3 of “Cat Introductions.” Youll want to have resident dogs on a leash a well-trained/ well-behaved dog will make the introduction go much smoother. Dogs should be praised & rewarded for ignoring your foster. Teach your dog not to fixate on your foster cat by redirecting their attention.

Introducing Kids to Your Foster
Since we dont always know a foster cats history or tolerance level for different types of people and activities, please teach your children how to act responsibly and respectfully around your fosters. We do our best to place you with an appropriate foster that will be the best fit, but you should still supervise all interactions between children and your foster.

Remind Children
• Alwaysleave the foster cat alone when he/she is eating or sleeping. Some cats may nip or bite if bothered while eating or startled while sleeping.
• Do Nottease or rile up the foster cat.
• Do Notchase the foster cat around the house; it may scare him/her.
• Be Carefulwhen opening & closing doors, so the cat isnt accidentally let outside or into a room he/she isnt supposed to be in.


Stage 2: Sight
• Carrier Meeting.Place your foster in a carrier & set the carrier in a location in your home outside the safe room. Allow the resident cats to investigate, see and sniff your foster through the carrier.
• Gate Meeting.Another option is to secure a baby or pet gate in the doorway of the safe room. Allow the cats to see and sniff one another through the gate. Keep the visits short.
• Repeat.Continue this process at least once daily if possible, until the cats appear to be more comfortable with one another.

Your foster cat may not display any signs of illness initially. Therefore, it's up to you to observe your cat closely each day. Call your Foster Coordinator if you see abnormal behavior; unusual discharges from the eyes, nose or other body openings, coughing, sneezing, abnormal lumps, limping, difficulty getting up or down, loss of appetite or abnormal waste elimination or vomiting. Look for signs of illness.

Deworming
○ All cats & kittens must be dewormed. Pyrantel is the dewormer that we keep on hand; we normally provide it to the foster home to administer to their foster cat(s).
○ Adult cats: should be given a dose of Pyrantel every 2 weeks, for a total of two doses.
○ Kittens: should be given a dose of Pyrantel every 2 weeks until about 12 weeks old.
○ A different dewormer may be used depending on the specific cat, results of a fecal test, or due to availability.
○ Refer to the CVRR Cat Flea Treatment & Deworming document for more details.

Flea/Tick Treatment
○ Spread the fur around or use a flea comb to check for live fleas, flea dirt, and ticks.
○ Regardless if fleas/ticks are found, all cats and kittens should receive at least one dose of treatment upon intake. Revolution is the medication that we keep on hand; we normally provide it to the foster home in a pre-dosed syringe to administer to their foster cat(s).
○ Refer to the CVRR Cat Flea Treatment & Deworming document for more details.

Vaccines
○ All cats & kittens are vaccinated according to their age.
○ FVRCP is a combination vaccine that certain CVRR volunteers are qualified to administer.
○ Adult cats: should be given an initial FVRCP vaccine followed by a booster 3-4 weeks later.
○ Kittens: should be given an FVRCP vaccine every 3-4 weeks, starting at 6-8 weeks old (3 total).
○ Rabies (1-Year) vaccine must be given by a veterinarian, & is normally done at the time of spay/neuter (at least 12 weeks old).
○ Refer to the CVRR Cat Vaccination Protocol document for more details on vaccines.

FeLV/FIV Combo Test
○ All cats & kittens are tested for feline leukemia (FeLV) & feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV).
○ This test is done by a veterinarian, & is normally done at the time of spay/neuter, but can be done prior if necessary.

Spay or Neuter
○ All cats & kittens are spayed or neutered before adoption is finalized.
○ Spay/neuter surgery is scheduled once the cat is at least 12 weeks old, & weighs at least 2.5 lbs.

FVRCP vaccines are administered 3-4 weeks apart, starting at 6 to 8 weeks old.

• Kittens should typically receive a total of3 FVRCP vaccines.
• Cats & kittens 20 weeks in age and older should receive2 FVRCP vaccines.
• All cats & kittens should be given an FVRCP booster vaccine annually, or as recommended by a veterinarian.

Dewormer (pyrantel) is administered every 2 weeks, starting at 6 to 8 weeks old.

• Kittens should typically receive a total of 3-4 dewormings (this varies depending on dewormer used).
• Cats & kittens 20 weeks in age and older should receive at least 2 dewormings (this varies depending on dewormer used).

*Rabies vaccine (1-year) is administered between 12 and 16 weeks of age.

• Regardless of the age at first vaccination, a Rabies booster vaccine (3-year) should be given 1 year later, & then every 3 years.

*Spay/Neuter surgery is done once the cat is at least 12 weeks old, and weighs at least 2.5 Ibs.

○ Diarrhea can be caused by several factors, including stress, change of diet, poor diet, eating garbage, parasites & viruses. If your foster cat has diarrhea & has no other symptoms, rule out change of diet by feeding your cat a bland, consistent diet for a day or two.

○ Provide plenty of fresh water since diarrhea can cause dehydration. To check for dehydration, pull the skin up over the shoulder blades. If it snaps back quickly, the cat is not dehydrated. If the skin goes down slowly, then the cat is dehydrated and may need fluids. Dehydration can be very dangerous for a kitten so contact your Cat Coordinator if you suspect your foster is dehydrated, or if you notice other unusual symptoms along with diarrhea, such as extreme lethargy, vomiting, etc.

○ If you notice diarrhea that persist for more than 48 hrs, you should get a fecal sample & contact the Cat Coordinator to ask for a fecal test. Fecal samples should be placed in a ziploc bag & must be kept refrigerated until it can be brought to a veterinary office.

○ If the diarrhea continues or gets worse, make a vet appointment through the Cat Coordinator, & bring a fecal sample with you to the appointment if possible.

Upper Respiratory Infections (URIs)
○ Feline Upper Respiratory Infection (URI) is similar to a common cold in humans, but it's not transmissible from cats to humans.

○ It is especially common in cats who have been exposed to a lot of other cats, such as at an animal shelter or in an outdoor cat colony.

○ URIs are rarely fatal, and usually resolve within 1-3 weeks, but if left untreated, URIs can be deadly especially in young kittens.

○ Treatment generally consists of supportive care. In addition, antibiotics are sometimes given to treat possible bacterial infections.

How should you care for a cat with an URI?
○ Mild cases of URI can often be treated at home with supportive care. Provide the cat with a quiet, warm place to rest.

○ Be sure the cat is eating. When cats get stuffy noses, they can't smell their food very well and may not want to eat. Offer extra smelly, wet food such as fish flavored canned cat food, or even plain chicken baby food. Warming it up often helps.

○ Gently clean the cat's nose and eyes with a soft cloth moistened with warm water. If the cat is very congested, use a humidifier or put the cat in the bathroom and run hot water in the shower for a few minutes a couple of times a day.

○ Moderate to severe congestion is often a sign of a secondary bacterial infection, as is yellow or green discharge, so contact the Cat Coordinator to discuss treatment.

If any medicine has been prescribed, be sure and give the full course as directed, even if the symptoms seem to have gone away.

Ear Mites
○ Common in young cats, ear mites appear as a dark black waxy build-up in the ear.

○ Your foster cat will likely be scratching at his/her ears or frequently shaking their head.

○ Ear mites can be treated with Revolution, which is a topical medication that CVRR keeps on hand. The ears can also be cleaned daily with a Q-tip and mineral or coconut oil.

Parasites
○ Parasites can cause diarrhea, stomach bloating or vomiting.

○ Parasites include tapeworms, roundworms, hookworms and mange.

○ Tapeworms will look like pieces of rice coming out of your foster cat's anus or in their stool.

○ Roundworms & hookworms may be vomited, and roundworms look like spaghetti (hookworms are smaller & rarely distinguishable without the aid of a microscope).

○ Mange is an infestation of tiny mites that bite and cause intense scratching, reddened skin & loss of fur. Only rare cases of mange (sarcoptic) are contagious to humans.

○ If you suspect your foster cat has parasites, contact your Cat Coordinator to schedule a fecal test. Once diagnosed, parasites are easily treated.

Panleukopenia
○ Panleukopenia, also called feline Distemper or Panleuk, is closely related to canine Parvovirus.

○ Panleuk is a highly contagious virus that an infected cat secretes in large amounts in all body secretions including feces, vomit, urine, saliva, and mucus.

○ It is contagious to other cats but not to people or dogs.

○ Signs of infection are depression, loss of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, fever and general malaise.

The virus is often fatal and most commonly affects younger or unvaccinated cats. This virus can be deadly to cats & especially kittens. The FVRCP vaccine protects against this disease.

Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)
○ FIP is a very serious disease with nearly 100% mortality. It is not contagious to people or dogs & moderately contagious to other cats.

○ FIP results from infection of the Corona virus and nearly all cats & kittens living in shelter or communal living situations have been exposed to the virus. While exposure has taken place, only a small percentage of exposed cats or kittens will convert the Corona virus to FIP. If converted, the disease leads to the failure of the infiltrated organs, fevers unresponsive to antibiotics, & often the accumulation of thick yellow fluid in the belly or chest.

○ Symptoms of FIP may include a distended abdomen, lethargy, lack of appetite, hanging head over food and water bowl without eating or drinking. The cat or kitten will typically die within 1-2 weeks.

Until three weeks of age, kittens need a substantial amount of bottle feeding. Since the mother is not available, the foster parent must provide all of the mother's functions: feeding, warmth, cleaning and stimulation to urinate/defecate. There is no set rule that applies to all litters of kittens, but there are guidelines to help you. We also highly recommend resources provided by the Kitten Lady.

Safety & Confinement
○ These kittens should be set up in small living quarters (i.e. crate or box with bedding), kept consistently warm at about 80-90 degrees. They will pile on each other to keep warm, but a hot water bottle and warm bedding are needed. Heating pads can be dangerous. If used, they should be kept on low, with several layers of bedding between the pad and kittens, and they should be monitored closely.

○ Under two weeks old: Chilling, diarrhea and dehydration are the biggest killers of kittens this young. If they have been orphaned, you must assume that they are chilled. The bedding arrangement must include a heating pad with plenty of padding between the kittens and the heat. A towel folded over once to make two layers of towel is ideal. You can burn the kittens if you do not monitor them carefully.

Keep Them Clean & Warm
○ From birth on, kittens must be kept clean and warm.

○ They must also be kept flea free; fleas can kill a kitten by causing severe anemia. Flea combing daily is usually enough, but for infestations, kittens under 3 weeks old should be bathed in warm water and dawn dish soap.

○ Kittens are messy. They will likely need to be bathed or cleaned with warm water when they get food on themselves, have excessive fleas, or have diarrhea. They must be thoroughly dried after bathing to avoid becoming chilled, which can lead to illness or death. Wrapping them in a towel and drying them vigorously and/or using a hair dryer on a low setting are recommended.

○ Change their bedding regularly. Kittens under 3 weeks old cannot regulate their body temperature. Keep them on a heating pad, set on low, wrapped in towels (at least two layers of towels, or one towel folded over) should cover the pad. If it's too hot, the kittens will tend to sleep on the edges. The heating pad should be used until the kittens are about four to five weeks old, or until you notice that they're avoiding it.

Kitten milk replacer, such as KMR, should be mixed and fed according to package directions. Generally, feeding every 3 hours is needed in the beginning. By 3-4 weeks of age, feeding every 4-5 hours with a night break of 8 hours should work well.

Milk replacer can be fed by dropper, syringe or bottle as kittens accept it and need larger feedings. Some of the kittens may be too weak to suck from the bottle and you will need to feed them with syringes. If you need to syringe-feed the kittens, drip the formula slowly into the side of their mouths, and give them time to swallow. Going too fast can cause liquid to go into their lungs and cause pneumonia.

Do not hold kittens on their backs, or allow them to suck too fast, as this can lead to aspiration of formula into the lungs. The kittens should be tilted forward and slightly up, as if they were nursing on their mother. Never try to bottle feed an unconscious or semi-conscious kitten.

Feed until the kitten's tummy feels tight and full. Sick kittens will not eat eagerly, and you will have to feed them slowly and often to ensure they are getting enough food. After each feeding, you must stimulate bowel and bladder movement. Use a warm, damp cotton ball or later a cloth as volume increases. Mineral oil on a Q-tip at the anus may stimulate defecation. Gently massage their genital areas in a circular motion and do not stop until they have finished eliminating.

Note the color of the urine. If it is light yellow or straw colored, this is normal. If it is a bright canary yellow, the kitten is dehydrated and needs fluids immediately. Cottage cheesy stools or diarrhea are also an indication of illness. Contact your Cat Coordinator if you see these symptoms.

By nature, mom cats lick the back end of their babies to stimulate the bowels & bladder on a regular basis. Since you serving as the babies' new mom, guess who gets this duty!

After each feeding, gently rub the kitten on its lower abdomen, as well as the genitals & rectum, with a fresh cotton ball, cotton pad, or with a soft cloth moistened with warm water. Make sure you rub only long enough to get them to eliminate. Overstimulation will irritate the area. Keep an eye out for chafing and lingering dirt.

Kittens should, and almost always will, urinate during each stimulation. They should defecate at least once a day. One trick is to slowly count to 60 while you're stimulating a kitten. At that point, you'll know if they're done or if something's on its way out.

When kittens get to be about 4 weeks old, they're usually ready to experience the wonderful world of litterboxes — and you'll be liberated from stimulation duty!

You'll want to make sure you initially use pellet litter (i.e. Yesterday's News, Feline Pine, etc.), as small kittens can end up ingesting the clumping kind of litter & it can cause problems internally. Also, start with a small kitten-sized, shallow litter box so that the kittens are able to walk in & out.

After each meal, place the kitten in the box and see what transpires. If they don't get it right away, try taking its paw and showing it how to scratch in the litter. They'll catch on before you know it!

○ 3-4 weeks: Weaning can be started at 3 weeks by offering formula in a low dish or pie plate with or without canned food mixed in. Be sure to offer when kittens are hungry, so they will make their best effort to lap/lick/eat. Supplement with bottle or syringe feedings as needed until kittens are lapping consistently from a dish.

○ 4-5 weeks: By 4 weeks old, the kittens have enough teeth to begin experimenting with solid foods. During this first week of weaning, place some canned cat food in the center of a low-sided dish, mixed with kitten formula to create a “slop”. Using your finger, put a little bit of food onto their mouths and then show them the food dish. Do this several times until they drop their heads to eat. Don't be surprised if they walk in the food. You may still need to supplement bottle feedings, but by 5 weeks no more bottle feedings should be needed. You should also start leaving a small bowl of water in their feeding area at this age.

○ 5 weeks: At 5 weeks, offer wet food without any milk replacement formula mixed in (try using some warm water instead) and begin offering dry food as well. You can start this by mixing some dry food into their wet food. Continue feeding the wet food/kibble mixture until 7 weeks or so.

○ 8 weeks: By 8 weeks, the kittens should readily eat dry food with decreasing amounts of wet food 2-3 times/day.

Reading Your Cat's Body Language

○ Cats use different body postures to communicate their emotions.
○ When observing your cat, you may notice that he/she behaves differently when alone & when in contact with other animals and people.
○ As cats become more anxious about their surroundings, their body language may change quickly depending on the perceived threat.



Sleeping & Relaxing
○ Cats love high places to perch and look around, as well as cozy, safe places to hide and sleep.
○ Letting your cat sleep on furniture and relax on your lap will make your cat feel more “at home.”
○ Remember that cats are largely nocturnal by nature. So your bedtime may not be the same as your cat's. Your cat's increased activity during the night or early morning is not a behavioral problem - just instinct. You can help curb this behavior by playing with your cat with toys right before bedtime to tire them out.

1 box per cat +1
Have you ever had to share your bathroom with a less than ideal roommate? Your cat may enjoy the company of their fellow friends, but sharing their box is a different matter.

To keep the peace, we recommend having one litter box per cat, plus one more. This means that in a house with two cats, we recommend at least 3 litter boxes in various locations of the house.

Keep it Clean
No one likes a filthy toilet, and your cat will agree. Solid waste and clump should be scooped daily, and a complete wash of the box should happen at least once a month.

Cat Chooses the Litter
We suggest using a litter that is plain and unscented, but the choice is ultimately up to the cat. If the a cat is used to a certain type of litter, we recommend sticking with it. Cat's prefer a routine and stability and changing the type of litter can cause stress and inappropriate elimination.

Cat Chooses the Box
We recommend starting with your basic open litterbox, but every cat is different. Some cats prefer large, low-sided litterboxes, others prefer a hooded or high-sided litterbox.

Note:If a cat is using the bathroom close to but outside of the litterbox, then try changing to a different type of litter or a different type of litterbox & see if that resolves the problem.

---

Litter Box Issues
Try the following to help solve litter box problems:

Rule out Illness
The first step to take if you notice your cat is not using their litter box is to discuss this with a veterinarian to rule out medical issues as the underlying cause. Contact the foster team to discuss the next steps.

Clean up all the Mess
Any area that has been soiled should be cleaned properly with an enzyme-based cleaner. Cleaners that have this will break down the urine/stool traces in areas that you might not be able to see, but the cats can smell.

Prevention & Redirection
If you are still in the process of housetraining, or if you have already followed the above steps, make sure you limit the access of the house. This could mean a large crate or a small easily cleanable room (i.e. bathroom or laundry room) to help re-train the cat to use the litterbox.

○ Some cats are gentle while others are rowdy and prone to nipping or biting.

○ Biting, even while playing, is normal.

○ There are even some cats who give “love bites,” which are just little nibbles, usually on the hands and fingers, while they are in an affectionate mood.

○ You can discourage playful biting and avoid getting bitten by never using your hand as a toy but rather encourage play through interactive toys.

○ Biting may also be your cats way of saying they've had enough petting or playing. If this happens, stop what youre doing immediately, and leave your cat alone to cool down.

○ Many cats have their own “no-pet zone” where petting, handling, or even touching may lead to biting. Bellies are an area many cats will not tolerate you to touch.

Cats like to scratch. They scratch during play. They scratch while stretching. They scratch to mark territory. And because cats' claws need regular sharpening, cats scratch on things to remove frayed, worn outer claws and expose new, sharper claws. And yes, all this scratching can cause a lot of damage to furniture, drapes and carpeting.. BUT there are ways you can keep cats happy and prevent damage to your home.

The best tactic when dealing with scratching is not to try to stop the cat from scratching, but instead, to teach where and what to scratch. An excellent approach is to provide appropriate, cat-attractive surfaces and objects to scratch, such as scratching posts.

---

What to do about Bad Scratching Habits
○ Provide a variety of scratching posts with different qualities & surfaces. Try posts made of cardboard, carpeting, wood, sisal & upholstery. Once you figure out the cat's preference for scratching, provide additional posts of that kind in various locations. Keep in mind that all cats want a sturdy post that won't shift or collapse when used.

○ Encourage your foster to investigate posts by scenting them with catnip, hanging toys on them and placing them in areas where they'll be inclined to climb on them.

○ Discourage inappropriate scratching by removing or covering other desirable objects.

○ Put plastic, double-sided sticky tape, sandpaper or upside-down vinyl carpet runner (knobby parts up) on furniture or on the floor where your foster would stand to scratch your furniture. Place scratching posts next to these objects, as “legal” alternatives.

○ Clip the cat's nails regularly.

○ Consider putting plastic caps on the cat's claws so that they'll do no damage if they scratch on something in your home. These special caps attach to claws with an adhesive. They're temporary, lasting four to six weeks.

○ If you catch a cat in the act of scratching an inappropriate object, you can try startling them by clapping your hands or squirting with water. Use this procedure only as a last resort, because the cat may associate you with the startling event (clapping or squirting) and learn to fear you.

Despite the term "declaw," it's important to understand that this surgery involves more than claw removal. The last bone of the digit must be amputated to make sure the claw does not grow back. Some people decide to declaw their cats to prevent or resolve a scratching problem.We are strongly opposed to declawing cats and will not provide any cats with a declawing surgery unless medically necessary.

Declawing hasNOTbeen proven an effective method for improving behavioral issues, including aggression towards people or other cats. It can also cause arthritis. It should never be used as a behavioral remedy or as a preventative measure. The only circumstances in which the procedure should be considered are those in which all behavioral & environmental alternatives have been fully explored, have proven to be ineffective, and the cat is at grave risk of euthanasia.

A variety of alternatives exist to manage natural scratching behavior, behavioral issues & to prevent injury. These alternatives include: trimming the cats nails regularly, providing scratching surfaces for the cat to use, using deterrents such as double-sided tape to protect furnishings, & covering the claws with Soft Paws. Pet parents should also be familiar with cat behavior and proper handling techniques to avoid being scratched.

Like humans, cats would rather be praised rather than punished. Positive reinforcement means giving your cat something pleasant or rewarding immediately after he/she does something you want them to do. Since your praise or reward makes your cat more likely to repeat that behavior in the future, it's one of your most powerful tools for shaping or modifying your cat's behavior.It's more effective to teach a cat what they should do, rather than what they shouldn't.

Correct timingis essential when using positive reinforcement. The reward must occur immediately, within seconds, or your cat may not associate it with their action.

Consistencyis also an important part of positive reinforcement training. Everyone in the household should reward the same desired behaviors in order to be effective.

When your pet's first learning a new behavior, i.e. using a scratching post instead of your couch, reward them anytime you catch them using the scratching post. You can also help encourage the behavior by putting some catnip on the post, dangling their favorite toy, or even using a laser pointer.

Once your cat reliably offers the desired behavior, you may reward them with treats intermittently, e.g. 3 out of 4 times they do the behavior. Then, over time, reward them less & less, until you're only rewarding with an occasional treat. Continue praising the behavior.